Optimize your slicer setting blog tutorial

from the blog [optimize your slicer setting][1]

" …Cura recommends settings of .06mm for a high resolution print … "

MOUAHHAHA :joy: … you make me laught on that :sweat_smile: … really you make my day :smirk: come on… no personnal FDM printer can achieve that resolution :worried: (no,no… this is not because some professional bullshiter write it in the manual that you can do it…) even the 3/4 of the FDM printer cant reach a REAL constant 0.1mm layer height precision at the moment…and get problem from a 0.15mm layer height print…

a standard aluminium hotbed that reach 100degC move more than 0.1mm only from dilatation…

and i didn’t speak of plastic dilatation of the parts of your extruder mouting/ pulley mount…

the worst is that EVEN if the mechanical part or your printer is very rigid (all same metal , with hight quality mounting .), the extruder nose need to be 0.2mm or less (that NO know FDM printer use as a standard…) to reach that value…

a professionnal FDM printer like the stratasys 1200es (around 30.000$ ) for ex reach a "hight resolution’ of … of 0.25mm layer height

it’s not because the odometer of my car show a beautifull “200 max km/h speed” mark that the motor will follow…

ok… lets say that you X,Y, Z can move without dilatation, with very hight precision… ALL the plastic that we use in our filament give us more mechanical stress movement than this “60 microns” layer height ( you know … somethink like ‘warping’… )

the tolerance of the pro 3D FDM printer are around +/- 0.09mm so it’s speak for itself abouy this “0.06” mm layer height precision… (to compare… the tolerance of a injection molding part are around +/- 0.127 mm).

60 microns (0.06mm) is already a problem for some SLA printers with hight quality liquid resin that are far superior to FDM printer with only one axis movement…

[1]: https://blog.pinshape.com/3d-slicer-settings-5-things-you-need-to-know-about-3d-printing-software/?utm_source=mailchimp&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=december11thnewsletter :wink:

I agree that there is rarely any point to print below .1mm practically speaking it’s my experience that failure rates go up dramatically, especially with larger nozzle sizes…That said I’ve spent a lot of time printing the same thing over and over again while making changes to only 1 setting at a time. Often Z height is the tweaked variable. I’ve noticed these things:

There is definitely an improvement in quality printing at .1mm over .2mm on my machines. In specific:

  An ability to print more aggressively pitched overhangs without danglies

  A smoother surface (the Z print lines aren't as deep.

With everything tuned right and the star aligned a .07mm print will produce a smoother model.  That said it's way more likely to fail the print.

My settings for fine average rough are generally

.4mm nozzle fine = .1mm average=.2mm rough=.34mm

.35mm nozzle fine= ,1mm avg = .2mm rough = .3mm


yep… i’m agree with you. My settings are the same… on paper, less z height is better… but in the real life, i never see a print under a real .1mm … (and .15 is really the critical point for my three 3d printers… before problems… )

it’s just that number under .1 (even .2 if you want to stay in the ‘real reality’ lol ) is such a mechanical nonsense (but a theorical good result ) :wink: when you know all the parameters that can give a worst result… and if you follow murphy’s Law, you know that all errors will be summed…it’s just what i wanted to say on the “.06 mm layer height” default value of CURA …

in the final with the quality of the material of ours 3d printer , the number under ‘layer height’ is just a indicator to show where you are. and what you try to do… but it’s not related in any case to real value… and it’s just what the 3d printer users do need to not forget… (so boys, don’t try to play at “mine is b̶i̶g̶g̶e̶r̶ smaller than yours” :stuck_out_tongue: )