If you are new to 3D printing check out this link for a compiled list of tools that can make life easier when 3D printing: http://3dprintingforbeginners.com//3d-printing-essential-toolkit
If anyone has anything to add feel free to post here.
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Storing filaments properly is also so important! It can be such a waste when the filament deteriorates just because of the environment it was placed it— and more often than not, filament is kept together so they’ll all go bad together.
I’ve been pretty lucky in this regard…I have a relatively dust free environment, but my ABS & PLA spools sit unwrapped in a big pile and I’ve never had a problem with that…You can’t get away with that for Nylon though…
dan.
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Wondering the difference between glue stick and PVA glue. PVA glue works wonders for me… but no one seems to use it? Everyone’s going for the glue sticks these days
I swear by blue tape…I’ve never had to use any kind of glue.
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I second the blue tape. Aqua Net Hairspray works better than glue on heated beds. Easier to clean too.
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I think that we were all using PVA, but at different viscosity…
- Hairspray = thin, and more water soluble.
- PVA glue = medium viscosity, and less water soluble.
- Glue sticks = thick gel, and even less water soluble.
The residual glue left on the bed, was starting to cause 1st layer issues, once typical layer heights dropped below .2mm. So now I custom make removable glass and acrylic build plates, and use AquaNet Superhold hairspray, for PLA and small ABS items.
“ABS slurry”, for large ABS items. ( Zero corner lifts)
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Filament “storage” is a breeze if you use 5" shrink-wrap. It is clear enough to see the color.
http://www.amazon.com/Duck-Stretch-Inches-Single-964682/dp/B000NHTUCY/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1439512983&sr=8-13&keywords=pallet+wrap
Tape over any holes on the sides of the spool (but not the rod hole).
Wrapping is a bit tricky. Place a desiccant pack on the filament. You’ll want the wrap to over lap the edges of the spool by 1", so you have to get 2 full wraps around the spool, for it to be air tight.
I’ve only been wrapping PLA, since it is a water soluble corn-based product, (= porous) And I assumed that since ABS is a petrol-chemical product, it was water impervious…???
Nylon is much more complicated. I use a clear, small plastic tote box, with multiple spools mounted inside on a rod, dozens of desiccant packs, tape sealed the lid, and drilled a small hole for the filament to exit thru ( which gets taped over for storage).
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@tanya_Wiesner @dan_steele Yeah, I usually line the plate with that too, but then I put a thin layer of PVA just in case. It just never fails when I do that 
@Gene_Crady Oh that’s good to hear in regards to we’re all using PVA! It seems like everywhere I go, people use glue sticks. I once borrowed my girlfriend’s hairspray for printing, but I didn’t like the smell, especially when I’d have to sit around to watch the first few layers. So I just decided to go back to glue. How do you custom make glass and acrylic? Do you mean thickness wise? Sounds like a great idea
Glass and acrylic removable beds are just hand cut to size(custom=printer type), from scraps pieces. Typical window glass is around 3mm, but any thickness will work, you just have to make the proper Z-height adjustment, manually to the bed, which will mean having to re-level it,(just once), OR add a custom height spacer to hit the Home-Z-stop switch earlier. ( it all depends on which type of printer it is )
Acrylic was for unheated beds for PLA printing. 1/4" thickness is typical up to 200x200mm, but I use 1/2" for larger beds, up to 400x400mm. Glass works too, but if there are bed height adjustment screws sticking up higher than the bed, you may lose a little build area.
Glass for heated beds takes a few more minutes to heat up, than the initial bed-temp reading, so allow for that.
Removable beds can also be placed in the freezer for a few minutes, to make removal of your print item completely effortless.(it will almost just fall off the plate)
Also, #4) PVA filament. Used in dual-extruders, with PLA as a water soluble support material. (not for bed adhesion, just a fun fact ) 
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Hi, yes I am new in 3d printing. I have attended few workshops on 3d metal printing and from then onward I used to search alot on 3d printing services. 3D printing has been around for decades, better known as additive manufacturing (building an object layer by layer). 3D printing, long used for rapid prototyping, is being applied in a number of industries today, including aerospace and defense, automotive and healthcare. As accuracy has improved and the size of printed objects has increased, 3D printing services are being used to create such things as topographical models, lighter airplane parts, aerodynamic car bodies and custom prosthetic devices. 3d printing metal is going to reach to the next level of technology.
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This article is really amazing giving all the tools information which can be used while printing anything from the printer. I basically go for using hairspray rather then glue as it sometimes sticks so badly that it seems that by removing it, it will affect the printer bed also.
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